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Back Road Whispers is a fanciful name for just liking to travel the back roads of the world, wondering what whispers are lingering in the weathered buildings, rusty farm equipment and closed and boarded up businesses. I stop when I am able and “photograph the past for the future” so my grandchildren and their grandchildren will see what it was like back in the “good old days” of the 20th and early 21st century. Lately I have been exploring the world listening to whispers from palaces, castles, villages, and museums. The whispers need no interpretation.

Thursday, March 31, 2016

Mish Mash Balderdash on Jefferson Island

Jefferson Island


Thank you Wikipedia for this portrait of Joe Jefferson (February 20, 1829 - April 23, 1905), an American actor known for his role as Rip Van Winkle.  Although he did play other parts, including just about any that required "a babe in arms" as a babe in his actress mother's arms, he played Rip Van Winkle almost exclusively during his adult years.

Jefferson Island was his summer home and he spent only 3 months per year here (why anyone would want to spend summers in the south of Louisiana, melting in the heat, is beyond me!)   He had three other homes including one in Florida where he spent his last years. The gardens are not original to the house, they were designed and built after Jefferson's death by Lyle Bayless who bought the house from Jefferson shortly before his death but were named in honor of Jefferson's role as Rip Van Winkle. 


Not a lot to say about the gardens, other than they are beautiful and well maintained, not much blooming except for some Azaleas.  So just enjoy the beauty.....














The peacocks were quite the showoffs, both from the front view and as you can see from the back. 


The home is described on the website http://www.ripvanwinklegardens.com/joseph-jefferson-mansion/ as  "The home is an architectural treasure reflecting Moorish, Steamboat Gothic, French and Southern Plantation styles, harking to the Victorian age of elegance and grandeur."  Like so many of our sweet puppies with a mixed lineage, the combination of styles worked beautifully.  The cupola is 4 stories tall, viewed through a ceiling opening on the ground floor.  Like Shadows on the Teche, this home was furnished with beautiful antiques and paintings.  Joe Jefferson was an accomplished artist and hid animals in his many of his paintings.  One that we saw had a peacock sitting on top of a tree that without looking close was just leaves on a branch.  When you saw it, it was very obvious. 

Outside the gardens themselves is "Rip's Rookery" home to migrating egrets and spoonbills.  It is on the oak lined road leading to the gardens and mansion.  Worth a quick stop.







Not sure who lives in these houses, but they had an architect with a good sense of style.





There is a bit of history to Jefferson Island, besides Joe Jefferson.  Jefferson Island is one of five islands that are not true islands; they sit atop massive salt domes.   One such dome was owned by the Diamond Crystal Salt Company and was being mined for the salt.  Along came Texaco drilling for oil in 1980 beside the salt mine, because oil and salt work hand in hand for some reason.  Unfortunately, due to a mathematical error the drill bit punctured the ceiling of the mine.  I urge you to watch the short video about the disaster that followed, a link to the video can be found on Lake Peigneur: The Swirling Vortex of Doom a page with much better detail that I could give you.  That breach of the salt mine ceiling resulted in a whirlpool that ate 12 barges, land, buildings, and anything that got caught in its grips.  I just know it is scary to think something like that could so easily happen - one tiny mistake and instant disaster, and I would have thought the same as a fisherman, Leonce Viator, that was on Lake Peigneur that day "it seemed like the end of the world."   The chimney of a home on Jefferson Island still stands.  Just not quite where it should be standing.






The good news is that there was no loss of life resulting from that accident, even though there were 55 miners, 12 oil rig operators, and countless crew on board the barges, and poor Mr. Viator and his nephew out to catch some catfish. Unfortunately, three dogs were not so lucky.


With a bit of daylight left, we headed to St. Martinsville, considered by some as the birthplace of Cajun culture.  It was also the home to Arcadians expelled from their homes in Nova Scotia by the British between 1768-1769.  Pat and I both found it interesting since we had been in Nova Scotia last year where the expulsion took place.  The museums were closing, no luck there, but we did see the Evangeline tree where the fictional Evangeline (maybe, just maybe based on an actual person) held the dying Gabriel in her arms - although actually it was supposed to have happened in a ward in Philadelphia.  (the Louisiana version is much more romantic).











The Evangeline Oak sits on the banks of the Bayou Teche (which translates to snake in English - this Ophidiophobic just loves that) with a bust of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow.  A nice little boardwalk beside the museum and a short walk to the veterans' memorial and Saint Martin de Tours Church, one of the oldest Catholic churches in America, founded in 1765 by exiled Arcadian refugees.










Veterans' Memorial





The current structure was built in 1836.  It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places on April 10, 1972 and is recognized as the Mother Church of the Acadians.


Construction began on the church in 1836 but for many reasons it was not completed until June 2 1844.  One reason was a low water level in the Bayou Teche preventing the shipping of building materials.  Originally it was a simple rectangular shape, but in 1874 it was enlarged and the nave was extended and the apse and north and south transepts were added creating the church's current cruciform shape. 


The pipe organ was manufactured by the Pilcher Organ Company of Saint Louis, Missouri around 1890 for another church in Beaux Bridge.  It was given to the Holy Rosary Institute in 1934 and used there until 1955.  It sat idle for 20 years and was then sold to Saint Martin de Tours in 1977 for $600.  It was restored and reassembled and put to use.  For the music lovers out there that understand this (Gwynne and Betty) "The seven ranks of 393 pipes range in size from two inches to eight feet and produce seven families of sound."

Some of you may remember this guy from Fort Louisbourg last year.

.

Well here he is again in another form thousands of miles away.



This is my commentary from then, and it still holds true so I won't try to repeat it, just copy it.


The story of this guy is really neat to Marti's mama....the man went to the woods to die after being afflicted with the plague (he is showing you one of the sores).   The little dog at his feet came every day bringing him a heel of bread to eat.  Through the efforts of that little bitty dog, the man lived.  Now isn't that a wonderful story?  I have contacted Ft. Louisbourg to validate whether the story is a tall tale or based on fact.

I heard back from the staff at Fort Louisbourg immediately telling me they were out of the office until this morning.  An email was waiting this morning with this explanation of the statue. 
The statue in the chapel of the man with the dog is known as Saint Roch.
His story was taken from a book called "The Lives of Saints", Vol 3 by
Reverend Alban Butler (1711-1773). It was published in 1886 after Butler's
death. Here is what he says about Saint Roche:

"We find this eminent servant of God honoured, especially in France and
Italy, amongst the most illustrious saints in the fourteenth century, soon
after his death; nevertheless, says F. Berthier, we have no authentic
history of his life. All that we can affirm concerning his is, that he was
born of a noble family at Montpellier, and making a pilgrimage of devotion
to Rome, he devoted himself in Italy to serve the sick during a raging
pestilence. Maldura says this happened at Placentia. Falling himself sick
and unable to assist others, and shunned and abandoned by the whole world,
he made a shift to crawl rather than walk into a neighbouring forest, where
a dog used to lick his sores. He bore incredible pains with patience and
holy joy, and God was pleased to restore him to his health. He returned to
France, and in the practice of austere penance, and the most fervent piety
and charity, he wore out his last years at Montpellier where he died, as it
is commonly said, in 1327. Some postpone his death to the decline of that
century, and think he went into Italy only in 1348, when historians mention
that a pestilence made dreatful havoc in that country. Many cities have
been speedily delivered from the plague by imploring his intercession, in
particular that of Constance during the general council held there in 1414.
His body was translated from Montpellier to Venice in 1485, where it is
kept with a great honour in a beautiful church; but certain portions of his
relics are shown at Rome, Arles, and may other places. See Pinius the
Bollandist, t. 3. Augusti, p.380. F. Berthier, the last continuator of F.
Longueval's Hist. de l'Eglise de France, t. 13, ad an. 1327, and the life
of St. Roch by Maldura, translated into French by D'Andilly. Also Pagi the
younger. Bened. XIV. & c."

so there you have it......




The white marble baptismal font is believed to be a gift from the King of France.  The original marble lid was broken during transport when the ship carrying it wrecked.  Today's wooden lid is designed to be in harmony with the church's style.

Beside the church is a small grave yard that includes a bronze  statue of Evangeline, donated by the actress, Delores del Rio who played Evangeline in a movie filmed in the area in 1929. 











A full day resulting in having a glass of wine and some snacky food in our rooms for dinner and lights out before God turned His off. 



All to quickly it was time to head home with full bellies, more laugh lines, lots of pretty images in our minds of flowers and mansions, and still trying to decide how to best duplicate Jo's breakfasts.



Finally!!!  I thought this was going to be one trip where I missed seeing a rusty ole pickup. Nope, there it sat waiting for me to take its picture as we stopped at a light.






All roads lead to home....some in Texas include passing a trail ride.























At the end of this trip I would like to take just a moment to thank 5 people that make my travels possible and make them fun.  I should end every posting with these thanks.

Pat - my lifelong friend, travel buddy, and co-conspirator.  Life, and traveling especially, would be empty without you in it.  We have had some good times, have more planned, and I love you dearly, my friend.

Susan - who makes it possible for me to go off and not worry about the piece of my heart, Marti, I left behind.  I know Marti and the house are both in good hands while I am not there.  Thank you.

My three children - who encourage me to travel and spend all my money before I die doing so.  Thank you for giving up your inheritances (little as they are) for me to follow my passion.  I love each of you so very very much.

and I would also like to thank the people, foundations, historians, gardeners, and everyone else that give us things to see and do...you have made a beautiful, interesting and entertaining world and we never take it or you for granted.

Until next time.....listen and you might hear some whispers along the back roads, or you might hear the screech of a proud peacock.




Tuesday, March 29, 2016

Laissez les bons temps rouler



New Iberia


Nothing to show you from the trip to New Iberia, just I-10 and Louisiana highways, well that is if you don't count the naked guy riding a unicycle with his pet goat on a leash, which you can see everyday in Austin without driving so far.

B-O-R-I-N-G

Luckily my driver was anything but boring, so we solved the world's problems, discussed trips in the future, destinations that might or might not make it to the list, and even giggled a time or two.

First on the things to do was to find lunch.  We wanted to go to Clementine's but they were closed - even though the door was unlocked and the Open sign was on.  Pat had heard from a friend that is was good food, and I had read the website history and it caught my interest.  So even though we didn't get to go, you still get the story.  Clementine's was named for the owner's favorite artist, Clementine Hunter.  She worked on a plantation in the early 1900's and found some tubes of paint left by a visiting artist.  With those paints she documented her life which was pretty much just work and church.  She signed her work with her initials CH but turned the C around because she thought the regular way was cold and appeared to be turning her back to the person reading.  Instead she faced it to the left so it was welcoming and reaching for a hug.

OK, on to what we actually saw.  After a quick sandwich at a nondescript lunch counter we joined a tour of Shadows on the Teche, an antebellum home in historic downtown New Iberia.



The home was built between 1931 and 1934 and is 3,750 sf in size.  It was built on the edge of one of four plantations owned by David and Mary Weeks and it was the town house, used for entertainment and for a social life.  The rooms on the ground floor (kitchen - yup attached to the house by the last owner, dining room, and artist studio) were not interconnected.  You have to go outside to get to one of the other rooms.  David Weeks became quite ill while the home was being built and never lived in it, having died in New England where he had gone to seek medical attention.  Mary Weeks and her children continued to live at The Shadows and Mary remarried.  During the Civil War, Union officers lived in the home.  The property was separate from the second marriage and the eldest son of David Weeks inherited it on Mary's death.  He did a bit of restoration but after his death the two daughters, Lily and Harriet, inherited it and had to sell most of the land (all but 2 1/2 acres of the 158) to meet living expenses.  The last private owner was William Weeks Hall, Lily's son and he finished the restoration. 

William Weeks Hall was an artist and designed the grounds with an artist's eye.  The gardens are laid out very symmetrically with lines that draw your eye from one spot to the next.  He donated the home and the gardens to the National Trust towards the end of his life so it would be preserved for us to visit.  One of the unique items in the home was a door that his distinguished guests signed when they visited, Walt Disney was one such person signing for both himself and for Mickey Mouse.  However, if you angered him, or he didn't think you worthy of autographing the door, he would erase your signature. 

Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside the home, but take our word for it, it was filled with  beautiful antiques and art work.  We can, however, show you the grounds.


The Bayou Teche from the grounds of Shadows on the Teche









The old oak trees with gnarly and twisted trunks and branches, draped in Spanish Moss were just plain fascinating.   Everywhere we went in Louisiana we were pointing and oooing and ahhhing at these gorgeous trees.
























Even the Shadows needed a scarelizard.





The back of the Shadows.

The Weeks family is buried on the grounds of Shadows on the Teche.



The city of New Iberia has a boardwalk adjacent to the Shadows so we toodled down there to see what was what.  Surprise!  We were expecting just a walk along the Teche and found art instead.





Since all the Scarelizards have changed jobs it became the duty of the Scareducks to protect the art work and the board walk.  And a fine job they did.



After a relaxing glass of wine and a light dinner (I can't even type that with a straight face) at a local restaurant filled with locals we headed for bed in a beautiful bed and breakfast.  The light dinner was called a Half and Half.  Half etouffe and half fried shrimp.  Unfortunately, it was a full order of etouffe and a full order of shrimp, not the halves we thought.  On the plate with the main dishes of a large cup of etoufee with a mound of rice and at least 6 friend shrimp were fries, a hushpuppy, a fried banana, French bread, and a salad on the side.  BURP!  If every you are in New Iberia, I highly recommend Jane's.

Well I thought this would be a picture story about the beautiful flowers and homes we saw, but I think it is turning into a foodie blog.  I think Jo, the hostess at Estorge-Norton Bed and Breakfast could have put me in a tent in the back yard and I would still go back, just for the breakfasts!!  The first morning it was a tomato slice topped with a mixture of mushrooms, garlic, bread crumbs, onion and artichokes and covered in three cheeses.  Served with fresh fruit, cereal, croissants, and scrambled eggs taken up a notch. 

AVERY ISLAND - THE JUNGLE GARDENS

Fortified and miserable from overeating we took off for Avery Island and the Jungle Gardens.  I've wanted to go to Avery Island for about 20 years at least...didn't happen last year but it sure did this year and was well worth the wait.  The island gorgeous! 


Having risen through the ranks of Scarecrow, Scarelizard, and Scareduck Horatio finally achieved his life long dream of being the official Scarehawk of Avery Island, monitoring traffic as it crosses the bridge to the island.

I won't bore you with a lot of history, although it is interesting.  The gardens were designed and built by Edward Avery "Ned" McIllheney, son of the founder of the Tabasco Sauce Company.  It started as a refuge, Bird City, for the Snowy Egrets who were endangered.  Over a period of years he grew the gardens to 170 acres. 

It is a driving tour with stops along the way, some had side trips down trails or over lawns.  We seemed to have gotten tagged up with two other cars that were taking the tour with us.  One an older couple (she was 78 - we know that since she was quick to point it out at one point) and the other was a mother with her two young daughters.

The first stop was here with an invitation to walk down a trail.


We chose to stay in the car and not walk anywhere near this wild area!!!

Instead we stopped at Stop #2 to see the Oaks






















Just a side note, the Jungle Gardens lie along the Bayou Petite Anse (Little Cove).  It flows into the Gulf of Mexico through the Avery Canal and Vermillion Bay and therefore was a commercial waterway in the 19th century when schooners regularly picked up salt and sugar to New Orleans and other ports.   The Union forces used it as a means to try to capture Avery Island's salt mines.  Try being the operative word.  They failed but a land offensive 6 months later worked.  Today the bayou is used by both recreational and commercial craft seeking access to the Intercoastal Waterway and Vermillion Bay.

Next stop was for the alligators!!!  They fascinate me but I have a healthy respect for them.  Not so the older woman that was in our little motorcade.  She hopped out of the car and started taking photos getting closer and closer.  She did feel safe since she was behind a 2x4 holding up a sign.  (rolling eyes at some people).  Gators can travel for short spurts at 35 mph.  Doubt her 78 year old body can move that fast.  One on shore and three in the lagoon.  Credit for the first photo goes to Pat who took it with my iPhone out of her window (now SHE has some sense!).  Good job my friend!






The female lays 35 to 50 eggs in a hole she has dug.  After covering the eggs with mud and vegetation she will lay her tail on it to incubate the eggs.  The eggs stay buried for 14 days.  During those 14 days if the temperatures reach 93 degrees F. or higher the babies will be male; if the temps are lower than 86 degrees F. the babies will be female.  Between the two the babies will be a mixture.

Not going to bed stupid tonight!


On to tamer grounds, at least as far as we could see.  The boathouse.



The Ward Boathouse is named for Charles Willis Ward who ran a plant nursery and was an avid conservationist.  Ward and McIlhenney met around 1910 and McIlhenney gave Ward permission to construct a hunting a fishing camp in the Jungle Gardens.  To aid in his hunting and fishing, Ward brought a 72 foot motorboat and built the boathouse to keep it in.



The Lagoon




This is where we met up with the mother and two daughters.  There were two or three alligators sunning on the second of the two little nubs sticking out.  The mother stopped us and asked our opinion on whether the girls were safe...told her they were as far as where we were at that moment but we wouldn't get any closer.  She sighed a sigh of relief and said "thank you for another adult's opinion".  One girl was very keen on telling us that she had stepped on the island where the alligators were....so brave.   Don't blame the gators for hanging out here. 

The Cleveland Oak


About 23 feet in circumference and over 300 years old, the Oak is named for Grover Cleveland who came to southern Louisiana to visit his friend Joe Jefferson and visited Avery Island during that trip.  Supposedly he hugged this tree, and the one named for him on Jefferson Island, and that is why it is named for him.

It had lots of interesting bumps and blemishes too, as well as Resurrection Fern growing on it.


Following a trail from the Cleveland Oak you come to a peaceful and serene area.  The perfect spot for a Buddah.  Not what I think of as a Buddah but interesting nonetheless.






The area around him was beautiful, as you would think he would like to be. 








 No words needed....


A stop at Bird City - the beginning of Jungle Gardens, and a few random shots.  I love pictures in tree trunks...wonder what you will see.








Palm Garden


Bamboo grove - lots of bamboo in the Jungle Gardens


Tree mended with cement


Wisteria Arch working at blooming




The building above is the Tabasco Sauce factory.  There were about 18 gazillion 2nd or 3rd graders lined up for the tour....we passed this time.  Grin.

Heading overt Jefferson Island for lunch and a tour of their gardens and home....but on another post, not this one.


Laissez les bons temps rouler - Let the good times roll.