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Back Road Whispers is a fanciful name for just liking to travel the back roads of the world, wondering what whispers are lingering in the weathered buildings, rusty farm equipment and closed and boarded up businesses. I stop when I am able and “photograph the past for the future” so my grandchildren and their grandchildren will see what it was like back in the “good old days” of the 20th and early 21st century. Lately I have been exploring the world listening to whispers from palaces, castles, villages, and museums. The whispers need no interpretation.

Friday, June 13, 2025

FIFTY IN EIGHTY


Happy birthday to me, happy birthday to me, happy birthday, happy birthday, happy birthday to me!


For my 80th birthday I decided fill my dance card, so to speak.  I had been in all but one of our United States, Idaho, and I had a choice.  Fly to Boise and spend a couple of days or to fly to Chicago and take Amtrak to Seattle crossing Idaho enroute.  

And we are off and running...well, wheeling, but I didn't have to wait in the wheelchair area at all.  It was a plop and go situation.  Then I got to sit and watch the plane before me load until there was room enough to draw a breath again.  Southwest at its best.  Why I fly them.  Spent the time people watching and wasn't disappointed other than I didn't see my favorite first officer walking down the hallway.  I keep trying to spot him, some day it will happen.  Pat must have come to see me off but I never saw her.  I knew she was there because there was a two legged spawn of a rabid hyena running around out of control while his mommy read her book.  Thankfully, mommy and cub got on the plane heading to San Jose and not Chicago.

The flight to Chicago was perfect.  I got my favorite seat right up front with leg room, one young girl next to the window, who slept most of the flight, and the middle seat empty.  Had a glass of sparkling wine to jump start the vacation and finished a couple of jigsaw puzzle I had been working on.




Shuttle to the hotel was quick, safe, and driven by a very nice older gentleman.  The check in had a bit of an issue because some dumb old lady didn't understand the process of unlocking the door.  When both green AND red flash it means push hard.  Room was a Hilton Garden Inn with a three star rating.  However, the rating went up with adding the personnel of the hotel.  Shatara was all smiles, glad to see you, "don't worry, let me call maintenance." and as sweet as she was pretty.   Went down for drinks at 5:00 (this will be a recurring theme) to be greeted by Diana who brought me a real drink and not one that had passed by a gin bottle on the way to the tonic.  While I enjoyed it, she prepared a crispy chicken salad and sliced up a piece of cheesecake - just what I wanted and needed.  So good.  Then off to lala land ready to meet my Lyft driver at noon the next day.










Woke up to messages sent at midnight - "where are you?", "your Lyft driver is here", "your Lyft driver will wait five minutes for you".  Seems that there is a difference in 12:00 midnight and 12:00 noon and not thinking past selecting 12:00 will get you a $10 charge for the driver's time.  DUH.  Didn't worry about it, well deserved penalty so headed to breakfast.  Yogurt with fruit and granola looked good, so sipped my excellent coffee while the beautiful Whitney got it for me.  You would think you would get a couple of strawberries on top of a half a cup of yogurt, right?  WRONG.  I got the whole damned cow,  entire strawberry patch, and a field of blueberry bushes.   Enough to feed a family, but I didn't want to hurt feelings so I plowed through it.  Aren't I good??  Yusafi was there at the right time and off to Union Station we went.






Not sure if Yusafi let me off at the wrong door or what but I only got a glimpse of the beautiful lobby as I wandered around lost.  The Metropolitan Lounge was nice enough and the food court decent, if a bit confusing.  I saw a Jimmy Johns and got in line.  Regular Italian sub could feed an army.  I choked down half of it and a few chips washed down by a ginger ale that the lounge provided. Stuck the other half in my purse just in case I was starving somewhere.  Also grabbed a couple of breakfast bars and a banana.  You never know when the train might break down in the wilds of Montana and you have no food.  Best be prepared.  The banana and bars made it home but the sandwich hit the trash early on.





Soon they called my train number and a sweet red cap drove me right to my car.  Easy peasy to the max.  He put my sitcase in the car, I walked up and there was James.  Fell in love instantly.  Big smile, big hello, and a big "Welcome aboard".  (Thankfully, I watched Down Periscope after I got home, instead of before, or I would have lost it right there.  IYKYK).  Got to my roomette and settled in to people watch.  I was in #3, which is significant and another IYKYK.  And away we went right on time.









It didn't take anytime to arrive in Minneapolis with rural views along the way.  Speaking of views, Amtrak is not known for window washing or stopping the train so there is no movement in photographs.  Butt covered.  I did get my first Bingo square marked off in Minneapolis "funny sign".  I think I prefer Hobby Lobby to this establishment.  Soon we were on our way to supper and a quick stop in the Wisconsin Dells.











Tables in the dining car are four toppers, and Brunhilda (the boss lady of the dining car) fills them with four people, no matter if you are a party of four or a party of one.  I was first at my table but not for long.  I looked up and here comes this crazy woman flying down the aisle waving both hands.  Somewhere along the way I had met Cheri who has a personality not to be forgotten.  I instantly liked her and even more so as we got to know her. We because soon equally as friendly and fun Kimberley and Jo joined us and the Train Buddies bonded.  




Dinner was excellent.  I started with three Pearl Tempura Shrimp that were fried in a tapioca pearl tempura coating and served with a sweet chili sauce.  For the main course it was oven roasted salmon with a lobster sauce and served with brown rice and red quinoa along with green beans and carrots.  Of course you have to have dessert on vacation, right?  How about white chocolate blueberry cobbler cheese cake topped with vanilla bean whipped cream...yes please!  Joe, best waiter EVER, brought my complimentary adult beverage - gin and tonic of course and you could taste the gin for sure.  Unusual for a free drink.  It was so good in fact, I had to have another and James, who was in the car picking up orders for people eating in their rooms, said it was on him.  OK, no argument from me.  He had heard this was my birthday celebration trip.  









Time for jammies (thank you Damaris!) and reflection of the day behind me.

~  Three star hotels at airports can become five stars with the right personnel.
~  The roomette was a tad smaller than I thought it would be, but big enough for me.  I wouldn't want to       share it with anyone.
~  The train was rockier than I thought it would be.
~  I don't like sharing a bathroom with 20 of my new best friends.  Especially when one had apparently    partaken of the all you can eat one star Chinese buffet the day before.
~  I already love train travel.

I was lulled to sleep by watching the Mississippi River flow past my window.  Yes, there is a difference in color, got it going and coming, not sure what made the pink not show so much in the one.  Never claimed to be a weatherman.






































Surprisingly, I slept well.  Not as well as at home, but strange bed, moving bed, narrow bed lends itself to that.  Woke at sunrise outside of Grand Forks, ND to get photos of the sunrise and the effects of the Canadian wild fires.  Grand Forks is North Dakota's 3rd largest city, located along the Red River of the North.  The University of North Dakota is here with over15,000 students and over 200 fields of study.  It is also home to Grand Forks Air Force Base.




















And just like that we were arriving in Minot, ND (Hi, Cathy).  Although a "fresh air stop", the Train Buddies were having breakfast so we didn't get off.  Scrambled eggs with cheese, roasted potatoes and the best sausage I have had since Maine.  Joe spoiled us again with excellent service and a big smile.








A couple of not so fun facts that you probably don't want to know if traveling through Minot on a train:  In 1898 a tornado destroyed the timber Gassman Coulee Bridge near Minot.  A passenger train, just three minutes away from crossing the bridge when it collapsed, was able to stop just in time to avoid disaster.  Until a new bridge was built, steel not timber this time, the passengers were ferried across the coulee to another train on the other side.  As if that wasn't enough, in 2002 a train derailment west of the city sent a gigantic cloud of anydrous ammonia toward Minot.  One man died, many residents were sickened and injured by the gas.  Enough of Minot's history...nope.  You need to know that the city and surrounding area were wide open from 1905 until 1920.  Lots of criminal activity of all sorts going on giving Minot the nickname of "crime capitol of North Dakota" or if you prefer "Little Chicago.  Thank goodness Batman moved to Minot and cleaned it up!




We flew past Stanley, home to Lostwood National Wildlife Refuge that lies within the prairie pothole region.  This region produces more ducks than any other state within the lower states.  Bet you didn't know that!
























More beautiful scenery and we were in Williston, ND.  Williston is located near the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missouri rivers at the upper end of Lake Sakakawea.















Lickity split and we were now in Glasgow, Montana.  It is the most populous city within 110 miles although only the 23rd most populous in Montana.  There is some sad history though.  Native Americans inhabited the region for centuries, and extensive buffalo and pronghorn antelope herds provided ample food for the nomadic tribes.  The Nakota, Lakota, and Dakota people alternately inhabited and claimed the region from the 16th to the late 19th centuries.  In 1804 the Lewis and Clark Expedition came with in 15 miles of the future site of Glasgow and noted the extensive herds of buffalo and various game.  In 1851, the US government formed the first treaty with the Native American tribes.  From 1885 to Montana statehood in 1889, the tribes participated in agreements with the US government to re-drawing the Fort Peck reservation boundaries in exchange for feral subsidies.  As more and more homesteaders moved in the surround areas, pressure was placed on Congress to open up the Fort Peck Reservation to homesteading, resulting in tribes leaving the Glasgow area.


Not sure if this was in Malta or in Glasgow, but someone might want to contact the highway department.  Check out the bottom right corner.


Next on the tour was Malta, Montana.  Rumor is it got its name by a railroad bigwig spinning a globe and his finger landed on Malta in the Mediterranean Sea.  On July 3, 1901 Kid Curry (Harvey Logan) as part of the Butch Cassidy's Wild Bunch, robbed a train just west of Malta near Wagner making off with about $40,000 (Mr. Google says that was the equivalent of about a million and a half today).  Malta is also famous for having one of the best preserved dinosaurs ever discovered and only one of four that were fossilized.  It is a 77 million year old Brachylophosaurus nicknamed Leonardo.  Leonardo along with is pals Elvis, Roberta, and Peanut are on display at the The Great Plains Dinosaur Museum.


I spent my afternoon break taking a wee nap and reading.  Did I mention that Kimberley has two books published?  I am reading the first one now "The Day the Ivy Fell" by Kimberley Purcell.  It's on Amazon!





Time out for lunch, served by none other than our Joe with his trademark smile and and banter.  I wanted to adopt both he and James the minute I met them.  Today we had delicious perfectly seasoned Patty Melts with chips and iced tea.  No dessert since there was no room for such.  After lunch we parted ways and headed to our rooms.  Cheri and Jo were getting off at Glacier National Park so lunch was our last meal together.  Kimberley was getting off in the wee morning hours but will have supper with me before she leaves.  





On down the tracks through some beautiful scenery to Havre for a fresh air break.  It was a perfect chance for photos and stretching our legs.  Cool old steam engine down a ways but too far to get to before we would have to board again.  Did capture the really nice conductor who is scowling because dumb kids from the train had to play on the adjoining active tracks while their parents lovingly watched them and took pictures.  WTH????








The graffiti on the train car caught Cheri's attention, of course.  I, too, found it quite amusing.



















Back on board and through the canola fields we went.  One interesting spot we passed was (although not used as such these days) a cliff where the Native Americans in the long ago past would run buffalo off causing them to fall to their deaths.  Not sure what it is used for now, but it made me sad to see it.


No clue what this thing is but it is decorative in the middle of a junk yard.




The sun was getting low in the sky as we approached Glacier National Park and our goodbyes to two of the four Train Buddies.  I have always heard it is one of the, if not the most beautiful national parks.  We just saw the edges and I can see why people say that.  As our friends were detraining, Kimberly and I were sitting down to another meal.  I told Joe I would be having two drinks so just double up on the one he would be fixing.  He misunderstood my poor communication and doubled only the gin but not the tonic.  We soon rectified that, got my eyes uncrossed, and again no charge for the second one.  Still full from that delicious patty melt at lunch, both Kimberley and I settled for macaroni and cheese for dinner...if you don't count the chocolate cake with chocolate ganache pudding.  








And all too soon it was time for bed and telling the last Train Buddy goodbye.  Luckily during the night, I was awoken up by some fate of luck or divine intervention as we crossed through Idaho.  Fifty at eighty!  It was pitch black so I couldn't see a thing, but good ole Uncle Google told me I was there.  May still have to fly up to Boise for the night just to be totally legal.




With that it off to Ephrata, Washington.  It is generally believed that the city was named Ephrata by a man who worked for the Great Northern Railway.  The name Ephrata is derived from a biblical description of an orchard in the middle of the desert.  It is also the ancient name for the town of Bethlehem.  The region was known at the turn of the century for the great herds of wild horses that roamed the land.  

Somewhere along the way we passed through the Cascade Tunnel.  The photo below is what I saw.  I must admit it was a bit unnerving to know I was under a mountain for 7.8 miles.  Constructed from 1925 to 1929, it replaced a shorter tunnel a few miles to the north and at a higher elevation.  Why did they build a new one?  Something to do with  the deadliest avalanche disaster in US history.  96 passengers and crew members died in the disaster, 23 survivors out of the snow and rubble.  Some passengers chose to hike out and reached safety.  The other reason was a matter of ventilation.  With inadequate ventilation thick smoke would fill the tunnel fumes sickening both crew members and passengers.




More beautiful scenery ahead including the Columbia River as it flowed through Wenatchee, Washington.  The city was named for the nearby Wenatchi Native American people.  The name is a Sahaptin word that means "river which comes from canyons" or "robe of the rainbow" (my favorite of the two even though I didn't see a rainbow).  During the Yakima War of 1856, US Army Colonel Wright ntervened on a possible alliance between Yakama and Wenatchi tribes by removing the Wenatchi to Kittitas.  The resulting march was estimated to include 1,000 horses and extend five miles long.






















All too soon Puget Sound appeared to leave a lovely last scenic vision in our brains as we pulled into King Street Station in Seattle.  The trip was way too short but so beautiful.  I will ride the rails again!!























Since it was the last night of my birthday celebration and since I did achieve my goal of 50 at 80 I treated myself to a stay at the Embassy Suites in downtown Seattle instead of a hotel out by SeaTac.  I treated myself, but without knowing my mission or purpose, the hotel treated me even better.  They put me on the 17th floor in a corner unit.  I overlooked the water and skyline through one window wall, and the entrance to Chinatown and more downtown buildings on the other.  All that said, after three days on the train, I have to say the best part of the room was that shower that never ran out of hot water or pressure.  Sorry for the increase in your water bill, Hilton.











































Ran down for a quick lunch at 13 Coins on the terrace since breakfast was so long ago - this time french toast and those fabulous sausage links.  I ordered a club sandwich and could only eat half of it.  Removed the bread and made a salad out of the rest of it to take with me to the airport.  I ended up leaving it behind and regretted that decision.  After the happy hour reception and eating enough fruit and trail mix to make it dinner, I was done.  Off to sleep so I could be rested for the plane trip home.''


















A good nights sleep, so so breakfast, and another 30 minute shower and it was time for Silent Sam Marceleo to drive me to the airport.  


Then the fun began....NOT!  Since I want to dwell on all the beauty I saw, the new friends I made, and the 50th state being checked off I won't bore you with the details.  The 90 year old woman with two back fractures did not get hit by my suitcase, I did not do bodily harm to the Denver version of Shrek who had some issues and was the cause of the 90 year old almost being beaned by my bag, nor did I start an international war with Mr. Ethiopia 1943 who drove at the speed of snail assuring me I would make the flight (I did but not thanks to him),  I appreciated my first officer friend, Brad, all the more, and I truly believe my wrist that saved the mother from the suitcase is not broken just a soft tissue injury.  

Sandi picked me up and had a glass of HteaO in the cup holder for me.  She was my favorite child at that moment, let me tell you.  Of all the photos, though, this has to be my favorite.  "Mom's home, time for a nap."





Some leftover pictures without captions just beauty along the way.