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Back Road Whispers is a fanciful name for just liking to travel the back roads of the world, wondering what whispers are lingering in the weathered buildings, rusty farm equipment and closed and boarded up businesses. I stop when I am able and “photograph the past for the future” so my grandchildren and their grandchildren will see what it was like back in the “good old days” of the 20th and early 21st century. Lately I have been exploring the world listening to whispers from palaces, castles, villages, and museums. The whispers need no interpretation.

Wednesday, July 5, 2017

Victory at Sea - Manitoulin Island


OJIBWE



My thoughts are jumbled, my mind is over saturated, and the information is leaking fast.  This was by far my favorite day of the tour.  The Ojibwe First Nation welcomed us and explained their history, customs and traditions to us and then thrilled us with some fabulous dancing.  A beautiful island inhabited by beautiful people.

 

The Ojibwe are are under the umbrella of Anishinabe a group of culturally related indigenous people of Canada and the U.S. including the Algonquin.  The name is believed to translate as "people from whence lowered" or "the good humans", the literal translation is "Beings made out of nothing" or "spontaneous beings" since the myths of the Anishinabe claim they were created by divine breath.

Manitoulin Island is a sacred place to seven communities of the Anishinabe,  known as People of the Three Fires: The Odawa, Pottowatomi and the Ojibwe nations.  Long before European colonization these native groups migrated to Manitoulin Island. Under the Bond Head Treaty of 1836 Manitoulin Island became a refuge for natives wanting to live away from the influence of white civilization. It was known as the Manitoulin Island Indian Reserve. In 1862 the MacDougall Treaty allowed the government to divide the island culturally in order for non-natives to settle there, unfairly resulting in the split of Manitoulin Island into separate reserves ... resulting in the loss of culture for the natives who lived there.  


This beautiful lady was our introduction to our day and told us about the church we met in - Immaculate Conception Church of West Bay Indian Reserve.   Meeg-witch, Miss Donna, Meeg-witch (thank you in Ojibwe)

This church building is a combination of the Indian tradition of meeting around fire pits to learn about the Spirit and the customs and beliefs of the Catholic church.  To enter you open beautifully carved doors - the exterior side design is made up of a symbol of the Great Spirit with four sun rays denoting the four compass directions that show his power encompasses all.   Twelve smaller rays represent the 12 Apostles taking his teachings to the people.  There are floral designs that represent the Ojibwe people's closeness to Christ.  Spectacular by itself even more spectacular when you know the meanings.  Unfortunately I did not get a photo of the front of the doors since they were opened, but I found this image on Google images that will show you the building as well.


















The other side of the door is beautiful carved major totems of the Anishinabe people; each totem representing a clan or a family gathered together into one family, the church. 












Inside, as well as outside, the melding of the two traditions continue.  As you can see in the picture of the church the four compass points are represented with a cross at each.  The building is round like the circle of life and lowered into the ground since the native people feel a closeness to the earth. It then rises to the Creator indicating the joining of Heaven and Earth.  The furniture and altar are hand carved and even the robes and other attire (this Methodist little girl doesn't know what to call the attire of Catholic priests) are butter soft deer skin with beading.  There is one opening to the outside, other than the doors - notice no windows?  The one opening is at the top of the roof so all prayers can go straight to God.  There is a Thunderbird right below and covering the opening because it is believed the Thunderbird is the FedEx of prayer delivery.  There is symbolism everywhere. 

A couple of interior shots....


The four corners of the black cherry altar are supported by hand carved evangelists holding an eagle, a lion, an ox, and a cherub symbolizing the carrying of good news to the four corners of the earth by Jesus.



One of the Stations of the Cross


The color blue represents spirituality to the natives and is used throughout the building.  The tiered seating is representative of a hillside where Jesus would gather his followers around him. 

Besides the blue for spirituality, other colors making up the four directions can be seen throughout the building - red for warmth, fertility and growth; yellow for knowledge and new light; and white for healing and life.

The paintings in the background were painted by local artists.  Someone asked Donna if her dress was symbolic - no just a pretty dress she liked.



The building itself is not old, it was blessed and opened in June of 1972 replacing a very old structure that was destroyed by a propane explosion on February 27, 1971 that killed one person, the custodian.  All that remains is a bell and a statue of the Virgin Mary - you can see both in the photo of the building.





Very graphic example of what power that explosion carried, but there is one more piece that isn't on display unless someone tells you about it and points it out.  About 30 feet up in a tree is this board, wedged in the branches with the nails sticking up.


Soon it was time to cross the street and visit the cultural center but as we left there was a basket of bookmarks for us to each take one.




Our native guide who discussed clans and totems and then the art of these people was perfect!  He loves the traditions, he loves the culture, he loves the symbolism and he loves his people and it was evident.  There is no way I can tell you about the clan system other than a clan is a family and families support each other and work together to keep that family strong.  For information on the 7 clans of the Ojibwe head over to http://ojibweresources.weebly.com/the-clan-system.html It is written by John Rice, a respected elder of the Ojibwe and is clear and well presented.

The art work was varied but all beautiful.  Not sure what to call this but the design and the detail was unbelievable.  The center "eye of the hurricane" changed color somehow.





Porcupine quills are used quite often for designs on boxes and the like.  One example was a "painting" of a fox done with the quills - unfortunately their art work was better than my photography skills, so no photo.  The first box was done by the wife of the guide, it took almost a year to make.  He explained that the women will not work on their projects if they are having a bad day, the children are being little brats, or if they are sad.  They never  ever work on them during their "moon cycle". 






Beading and painting is also done on clothing and on hides.


Remember the long gold beads on the above....



Similar to, if not the Woodland Style painting.




After admiring all the beautiful artwork and finding out someone had  already bought the above beaver carving that I saw as soon as I walked in the door, we were treated to a smudge ceremony.  No photographs were allowed in respect to the solemnity of the ceremony.

Four different medicines are considered sacred among the Ojibwe - tobacco, sage, sweet grass and cedar.  Our guide started a small fire in a vessel with sweet grass and then fanned the spark with his hand, or a feather can be used.  You never ever blow on it to make it flame.  It would be considered arrogant to do so because you would think your breath is as powerful and as important as Mother Nature's.  After the flame has kicked in the smoke is captured in cupped hands and directed toward the part of the body you are focusing on.  The link below explains why you focus on that part of the body.  I don't know if the smudging worked or not but we walked out of there very calm and at peace, so it did something.

Again I urge you to read about the smudging ceremony and the medicines used at:

http://ojibweresources.weebly.com/ojibwe-medicines.html


So You Think You Can Dance?

Now on to the fun and games, although still very serious stuff....the dancing.  The Natives do not dance for fun totally, each dancer is showing their position in the clan.  Through dress, dance steps, and embellishments as well as the beat of the music the story is told.  I have tried to capture some of the dancers as best as possible in a crowded audience and a lot of dancers and musicians on a small stage...forget the photography and check out the costumes and the colors.

The first up was the "healer" (and some of my choices of names is strictly from my mind, not authentic or sanctioned by any self respecting First Nation person).




I told you to remember the beads on the one outfit in the Cultural Center.  Here is the same design again.  They are made from tobacco tins.  Tobacco is sacred meant to be used for prayer and offering.  It was the first of the four sacred medicines to gifted to the Anishnaabe people by the Creator.  Every adornment on the dress, from the headdress to the shoes, has to be earned through teachings and by respecting and using those teachings, not only this healer but any of the dancers.  She herself could not dance as a healer until she earned that right.

Following the healer was "the Grandma". 



As Grandmas are wont to do she moved slowly, shuffling her feet with only gentle lifts.  It was a calm and peaceful dance, nonetheless beautiful and beautifully executed.

Time to liven up the joint!!  Here came the Warrior - fierce and intimidating!







With twirls, leaps and whoops the Warrior showed his intimidating power - he only made one mistake.  That mistake was to smile at one point, and he had the cutest little boy face in that instant it diminished the strength of the warrior.  Still loved him and was my favorite of the bunch.

Setting up campsites in nature involves a lot of cooperation and everyone doing their job.  The next dancer was proficient in flattening the grasses so the lodgings could be built.  Not as slow as Grandma and not as fast as the Warrior, he seemed to dance a grid getting the job done.





His costume is adorned with the clan symbols and with the four compass point colors.  I am not sure what the cowbells are for unless it is to make noise to scare the legless lizards and small animals away as he dances.

I have no clue what the idea of the hoop dancer is in the grand scheme of things other than for pure entertainment.  She has competed in many international contests and has won several.  She had 20 or 22 hoops she was working with and never dropped a one.  Very impressive young lady.







And that brings us to Grandpa.  I'm not sure if that was a tease or a title but I think it was a bit of both.  He may (stressing may) have been the older, well respected, wise go-to guy of the clan.





Let me tell you, Grandpa could still get his groove on!!!


We may not be in Scotland but we can answer the age old question....
The answer is biker shorts!


The guys in black are the singers and musicians; the girl in glasses and the blue jean jacket is there supporting her boyfriend surrounding him with love, respect and strength.


Time to sail away from the beautiful Manitoulin Island.



Animigagawin - "peace be with you"













Friday, June 30, 2017

Victory at Sea - Parry Sound





Oh, hi there, welcome to Parry Sound and Killbear Provincial Park.  Parry Sound and the town of Parry Sound were named after the Arctic explorer Sir William Edward Parry just in case you couldn't figure that out.  It is north of Toronto and part of Georgian Bay which in turn is part of Lake Huron which all adds up to beyond very pretty.  Not that our Rosie could enjoy any of the beauty of Killbear - she wouldn't get off the bus until it got to the paved parking area at the interpretive center.  Why you ask? 


Yup, she couldn't step a foot off the bus knowing there were so many of these spawns of the devil lurking around just waiting to nibble on her ankles.  She visited with two of the other ladies who also chose to stay on the bus while everyone else enjoyed a stroll along the banks of the sound and listened to the guide talk about the endangered Massassauga Rattlesn*ke (rumors she did the happy dance when she heard about the endangerment are entirely true).  Apparently, this little charmer is being protected to the extent of having tunnels built under the roads so you won't have to brake for them...and to get them to use the tunnels, little tiny fences have been built to guide their little slithering bodies to them.  (the sound you hear is Rosie rolling her eyes.)  True story.

The sign you see is a magnet that represents street signs along the roads - not little signs on fence posts, full blown huge signs like any other traffic warning.

So here is the one picture she got of the beauty of my part of the world.


So come on and meet some of my friends at the interpretive center.  Any of you that know Rosie knows she loves to pull her son's chain, who falls for it all the time, or so she thinks.  She  took these pictures to try to convince him she saw all of them in the wild....(now it is my time to roll my eyes that she thinks he is that dumb).





Cute ermine tail topper


OK, time to get back to work.  Hope you come see my home some day, it is full of history, culture, beauty and yes, even those Massassauga Rattlers.

See ya!

Thanks to my beaver friend I didn't have to mention the sn*ke word too much.  After our trip to Killbear we returned to the town of Parry Sound and did a bit of shopping.  I bought "Summer Storm" a copy of a painting by A.J. VanDrie's done in the Woodland style.  The Woodland style was founded/developed by an Ojibwe artist, Morris Morrisseau.  He took the teachings of his grandfather of the history and culture of his people and turned them into art usually on birch bark.  ""all my painting and drawing is really a continuation of the shaman's scrolls."

The Woodland style is characterized by bold outlines and X-ray views of people, animals and plant life painted in garish colors and bold strokes. 


The back of the card reads:  Each colour used in A.J. VanDrie's paintings is symbolic to the First Nations people and the style of art he incorporates, broadly known as the Woodland School.  "The black lines are the body of the plant or animal and inside the body there is a spirit. The red represents the flesh and the blood, the green symbolizes the growth, and the blue is the spirit."  The recognizable flower signed in the bottom right corner of A.J.'s paintings symbolizes his Ojibwe name Wahbegona, meaning Wild Flower.

After force feeding us more delicious food we went for a sail around Parry Sound on the Chippewa (Chippewa is an alternative spelling to the First Nation name of Ojibwe).  The Chippewa was a small little guy and thankfully had cover for us to get under since it was rainy.  Most of the scenery, while beautiful, was not distinct enough to fill this post up with photos from our tour.  I chose a few that drew my interest among the hundred or so I took - beautiful banks with small summer cottages and of course, being in Canada, pristine.



First cousin to the SS Minnow :)










The circle is for navigation purposes





The granite looking inlays, especially the skinny ones, are explained by the Ojibwe as "pink sn*kes drinking water" or close to that.  Even I can handle that because it is exactly what it looks like. 

If you like geology, Google Parry Sound, lots of geological stuff going on that is way above my level of understanding.



Cylindrical building has an entrance door - makes me wonder.











Luckily I still had enough vacation funds to bail her out...



Returned to the Victory to have more wine and food forced on us. 

The bridge in the background is the longest trestle bridge east of the Rockies at 1,695 feet.  It was built in 1907 by the Canadian Pacific Railway and the first train passed over it in 1908.  Today it provides westbound traffic for both the National Canadian Railway and the Canadian Pacific Railway.  Eastbound traffic uses the National Canadian lines.

Off to the Ojibwe First Nation tomorrow but it is pretty intense so will take me a couple of days to get it up and running.  In the meantime, look at this cute little weasel I saw in the wild...really I did....really.


Not sure I want to hear him whisper....