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Back Road Whispers is a fanciful name for just liking to travel the back roads of the world, wondering what whispers are lingering in the weathered buildings, rusty farm equipment and closed and boarded up businesses. I stop when I am able and “photograph the past for the future” so my grandchildren and their grandchildren will see what it was like back in the “good old days” of the 20th and early 21st century. Lately I have been exploring the world listening to whispers from palaces, castles, villages, and museums. The whispers need no interpretation.

Sunday, June 16, 2013

ASK AND YOU SHALL RECEIVE....


 ♪ ♫ ON TH WODE AGIN ♫ ♪ ON TH WODE WITH ALL AR FRENS ♪ ♫

Some of you will understand this...and yes I paid the royalty.  :)


Heading to the gate...leaving the worries behind!


Walt and I hit the road for a fun couple of nights away from life.  Well we made it 5 miles or so before I was ready to leave him by the side of the road...we planned on stopping at one of our favorite wineries for a bottle or ten...ok we were planning on stopping at three...anyway he was determined that we had to have it entered into the GPS.  Like I can't find my way????  To my favorite wineries?????  Only blindfolded!  So we stopped so he could fiddle around.  I didnt' mind too much because this beauty was in the field beside us.

 
 Giving up, or fearing for his well being, he decided it wasn't necessary after all and we toodled on off.  Of course I went **my** way and headed down Lower Albert Road to check on **my** house, then across Hwy. 290 to go down Ranch Road 1 that runs beside LBJ's ranch (therefore the #1 designation-sorta like Air Force One).  There were still some wildflowers blooming and there was water in the Pedernales (purr duh nal us) that required stopping to take a couple of pictures.













GASP!!!  I actually was able to find my way to both wineries....without using the GPS.  Actually the car automatically turned into them as we approached them.  First on the list was Torre di Pietra for some sweet white, Chiaro de Luna.  Unfortunately, we aren't the only ones that love it and once again they were sold out - more being bottled in the next couple of weeks.  So off we went next door to Grape Creek Vineyard for our other favorite Cabernet Blanc. The third was on the other side of town and we didn't make it.


Grape Creek Vineyards






 Our shopping done - off we went trying to find a place for lunch.  Talk about the Keystone Kops!!  The first try took us to the B&B and down the road an extra 12 miles before I could turn around.  The second try took us back up the road and into town and to the Fredericksburg Herb Farm - CLOSED.  Off we went to Mamacitas, but enroute Walt started feeling bad so we stopped at the Visitor Center and called to see if we could check in a little early - yup - so off we went back the way we came and ate supper for lunch (heavy snackie type foods).  Walt took a quick nap and we were  good to go.


All I asked for was a couple of days of relaxation, time with my husband without interruption or having to share him, a chance to catch my breath.  I looked for a place close so we wouldn't use our two days traveling, I looked for a place close to fun places and good eats, I looked for a place that offered a front porch to sit on with a glass of wine.  While I was looking I kept coming back to The Chuckwagon Inn, and made the reservation - it filled the bill, exceeded it actually, close to town and attractions, front porch, and unlike many B&B's in Fredericksburg, actually served breakfast (including some OMG yummy smoked by Sam ham) and didn't give you a voucher for a local bakery.  An added bonus was the hospitality from our hosts, Sam, Becky, Paco and Elton John (who sings - and can say "milk").







The Bolinger Cabin - two rooms and an outhouse :)

Hanging on the wall was the following history of the cabin:



The Bolinger Cabin



                Jasper Bolinge, son of Joseph and Rhonda Bolinger was born near Witter, Madison County, Arkansas on August 17, 1817.  


                In 1863, with his parents and eleven brothers and sisters, Jasper fled Arkansas and the War of Northern Aggression with his confederate ten guage shotgun and sword and headed south.  The traveling was rough and slow, through dense undergrowth and rapid rivers and streams.  He found the land he was seeking in San Saba County, Texas.  Jasper also found a wife, Martha Jones, and was married on March 10, 1870.  They were parents of nine children, eight boys and one girl.  He named one son Robert Lee, after his favorite general.  Fred “Dub” Bolinger was the fifth born son and was the owner of the present restored cabin.  The cabin was built  sometime in the 1830’s.  Earliest records show the owner to be J.G. Baur.  He sold the land to A.I.L. Estep and then to Jefferson Davis Jackson.  Bolinger bought the land and cabin from Jackson.  Fred Balinger was the last known resident of the cabin.


                Early in the morning of November 10th, 1925, Fred Bolinger was found shot in the chest and dying in the cabin.  He was taken to Brownswood, TX where, 17 days later, he died.  Will Edmundson was convicted of the killing.  Will owned the land adjacent to Bollinger’s ranch and according to accounts from relatives the shooting was the result of an ongoing dispute concerning hogs.  Will had a reputation for bing mean and ornery.  He’d run several people off from the area.


                After 3 trials, Will was convicted of the murder, served time and was later released to come home.  Soon after he had a dispute at the gate of the Mesquite cemetery, behind the Bolinger Place.  Edmundson pulled a knife on his son-in-law and the young man shot and killed him.  Due to Edmundson’s reputation, the sheriff declared the murder as justified homicide.


                There is no record of Fred Bolinger, born in 1877 and dying in 1925, of having any family.  The land and cabin was bought by the Ackerman family and was covered by a barn roof since the 1930’s. 


                If you hear anything rattling around in here, we hope it is Fred Bolinger and not Will Edmundson.       
         
Courtesy of Becky Higgins, Chuckwagon Inn
 

The cabin was decorated with a Civil War theme, copper sinks, gas fireplace, and comfortable couch to sit and relax on if you could get off the porch long enough.




Chair in the bedroom at the edge of a cow hide rug.  Perfect place to sit and put on your shoes, drape your robe, or even have a moment by yourself.


 


The horse in the living room, complete with a holstered 45, sword and knife.  Never seen a rocking horse quite like this but it was perfect for that corner.






The kitchen was tucked in a corner, complete and, as with everything else in the cabin, - perfect.  The light is on because some dumb broad taking the pictures couldn't find the light switch to turn it off.  Um, it would be behind the Ritz that said dumb broad placed in front of it....









 

















The interior wall.





 And here's the outhouse!  Cute, concealment of a modern toilet (except it was a pull chain hanging from the ceiling to use to flush it).  Inside was a magazine rack with books like Weird Texas and one about outhouses.  Just one more "Becky touch" that added to the whole experience.  The tub had a shower and a jacuzzi tub...figured a shower would do me or I would just melt into a blob of protoplasm, but maybe next time.






Outside was as welcoming and beautiful as the inside.  I left Walt taking his nap and took off with my camera poking around.   The pine tree right across the parking area was breathtaking.  I think it is a Loblolly but I barely recognize dandelions so don't take my word for it.  Beautiful I recognize...and this was.


Random shots as I strolled around.  The owners home was built in 1854 by one of the founders of Fredericksburg, Adam Tatsch, his brother built an identical one down the road a piece next to the golf course.  Adam's property became a dairy farm, owned by Dave Miller.  Becky has been fortunate enough to obtain photographs from both the Tatschh family and the dairy farmer with his milk cans.  The buildings are original to the property and were once barns and farm buildings.  A tornado tore a tin roof off one of the buildings and on the back side it was marked 1902...





























































Sam's hideaway....
















 If I didn't already like Sam, I would have when I found this in his cantina!!!

  

We unpacked, and relaxed on the porch for the rest of the afternoon, swinging and watching the planes land at the nearby airport.  TOTAL RELAXATION!!  We did get enough energy to go eat at my favorite place in Fredericksburg to eat, the Fredericksburg Brewing Company!  Grilled chicken wrap with a fruit salad side....well plus a couple of stolen fries from Walt's plate...I'm happy.







 The next morning I spent an hour or more swinging on the porch drinking my coffee and relaxing....did I mention we relaxed a lot on this trip?   This is what I saw as I sipped.




AHHHHHHHHHH.......

After a delicious breakfast and great company we were off to do a bit of exploring.  I had printed off a couple of caches...still have them printed because we didn't find a one, but it didn't matter.  Our first stop was at The Marketplace and Pioneer Park.  A beautiful little oasis in the middle of town.  Many of Fredericksburg's distinguished citizens over the years are featured in memorials and statues.




The building in the picture above is the Vereins Kirche.  Today it is an extension of the Pioneer Museum, but it has served many purposes since it was built soon after the first settlers arrived.  It has been a school, town hall, fort, and of course as a church for many denomination.  The original was demolished in 1896 and it was rebuilt and dedicated in 1935. 







We wandered through the gardens, reading the memorials and enjoying a beautiful day in a beautiful city in a beautiful part of a beautiful state.  Life is good.




We did find some other visitors and stopped to chat with them awhile, but they seemed more interested in lunch than conversation so we continued on our way.

























One group of statues shows the signing of  the treaty between the Commanche and the settlers represented by John Meusebach (called El Sol Colorado - The Red Sun - because of his red beard) and Chiefs Santa Anna (not the Mexican general) and Buffalo Hump as well as minor chiefs.  The treaty gave the whites the right to settle and go into Indian Territory and the Indians the right to come into the white settlements.  The treaty opened up some three million acres to white settlers and was never broken, unlike so many others.  The original document was presented to the Texas State Library by John Meusebach's granddaughters in 1972.













Buffalo Hump























Santa Anna



















 John O. Meusebach


Buffalo Hump was also on friendly terms with Lyman Wight, who in 1845 brought a group of 150 fellow Mormons into Texas.  In 1846 they moved into the Austin area and set up a mill along the Colorado River.  The mill was washed away in a flood and they weren't exactly greeted with open arms in Travis County anyway, so they once again moved, this time to the Pedernales River and formed a town called Zodiac.  Within the first 6 months they had built a mill, a school, a store and a temple.  The German settlers admired their industrious nature but weren't so keen on some of the practices such as polygamy.  Brigham Young sent missionaries into Texas with the express purpose of bringing Lyman Wight back to Salt Lake City.  Wight refused and was excommunicated, however he continued to lead his followers.  He died of a heart attack enroute to Missouri, leaving Texas a state sympathetic to the South during the Civil War.  Today a Texas Centennial Marker and the Mormon Cemetery are all that is left of Zodiac.  

The Mill Wheel in the park was dedicated to the Mormon Colony of Zodiac for their contribution to the development of Fredericksburg.










After lunch we headed out to check out the Old Tunnel Bat Cave.  We knew the bats wouldn't be there but wanted to see the area anyway, we could have waited until 8:52 and watched them emerge for 15 minutes - which makes me wonder how someone knows that they won't fly out at 8:51 or 8:53, and it will take 15 minutes to empty the tunnel, not 14 or 16.  Nice ten mile drive down a back road (YAY) and we were there.  I have heard rumors that the bats share the old tunnel with thousands and gazillions of rattlesn*kes (shudder) so I don't want anything to do with it!  This was good enough :)








The other 23.75 hours of the day are used in experimental gardens and growing fruit. 

Below is the view from the viewing platform.  I was hoping to at least see the tunnel but this will do. 




Well that was fun, but I by golly damn was going to get a cache before the trip was over, so off we went to check one out at an old, but still active, cemetery.  Both GPS units aren't holding a charge for some reason so I was relying on my phone which isn't as accurate making me take a bit longer than normal.  Before I could get to it, a funeral started filing into the cemetery so we left out of respect to the family.  I will be back next April.  The cemetery is covered in bluebonnets in April with the old headstones...oh gosh, what a picture!  There was one hanger on that was trying valiantly not to go to seed.




The section close to where the cache was unfortunately the resting place for many children. 







Back to the cabin to sit on the porch, snack and sleep.  Life is good.

Unfortunately, all good things must end...after another yummers breakfast we packed up and started home.   Turn right at the second light and you come to Das Peach Haus - filled with tummy ticklers like you wouldn't believe.  I've long been a fan of Fischer Wieser products, but only a few products on a shelf in a store.  Das Peach Hause was floor to ceiling flavor busters!!  I parked Walt with a Coke in the back of the store and I started adding stuff to a pile that kept growing and growing and growing. 


 
 

First into the pile was the Raspberry Chipolte Sauce.  As my sweet friend, Doreen says, "that would be good on a flip flop!".  It would but we prefer  it as an accompaniment to wine by pouring it over cream cheese, or using as a marinade on poultry or pork.  Lots more recipes
 Fisher Wieser  







The store.



Wine tasting room.



Come on, you knew I would find one!!  And what a beauty I found!







Would not want to ride down a bumpy road on this seat!!  













Came home the back way....well a different back way than normal and found a couple of beautiful houses beside the road.























Finally the best part of any trip....coming home.



 Home again....relaxed....life is good.
Thank you Becky and Sam!





"So you're home...great, did you bring me a carrot or something?" - Ramona 



Lovely trip, got my itchy feetsies wanting to go again.....until then, listen to the whispers of the back roads, they have stories to tell and secrets to reveal.

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