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Back Road Whispers is a fanciful name for just liking to travel the back roads of the world, wondering what whispers are lingering in the weathered buildings, rusty farm equipment and closed and boarded up businesses. I stop when I am able and “photograph the past for the future” so my grandchildren and their grandchildren will see what it was like back in the “good old days” of the 20th and early 21st century. Lately I have been exploring the world listening to whispers from palaces, castles, villages, and museums. The whispers need no interpretation.

Friday, August 7, 2015

Canada - Part Three (Tois?)



Well that should have gotten your attention....LOL.

Back to the Bog Walk...a fun 30 minute or so stop on our journeys.  Random pictures, don't ask what they are, I have trouble with flowers in Texas let alone in Canada.  The red one is a pitcher plant (saw that on one of the boards) the rest I have no clue.



































One foggy wet cold morning (gads it felt good!) we got hustled off to the Fortress of Louisbourg, an 18th century fort in Nova Scotia.  They have daily volunteers re-enacting life in the fort during that time.  Just in case you are wondering, there was corruption back then too.  I can't tell you about it or they would have to kill me, besides I can't remember the details - as usual I was more interested in the daily living than the fighting and politics of the era.  So figure it out...there are soldiers but there are also civilians and sheep...lots of sheep!!  Did I mention there were sheep?












Frederic Gate



Those were some of the buildings...these are some of the people (just in case you can't make the distinction -grin)




















Looking out to sea, early warning signal

My favorite person was the farm wife.




Her gardens were simple but effective - rectangles were halved in two and then an X dug in each half with different plants in each triangle.

















Did I mention they had sheep?

They had sheep....



















 





In the center of the long building you can see a steeple.  It is actually over the chapel. 





There were two ships hanging in windows of the chapel.  They hung there to bring God's blessings on the actual ships at sea.  The guide didn't tell me if this worked or not so we will just assume that it did and all the sailors got home safely from their journeys.




The story of this guy is really neat to Marti's mama....the man went to the woods to die after being afflicted with the plague (he is showing you one of the sores).   The little dog at his feet came every day bringing him a heel of bread to eat.  Through the efforts of that little bitty dog, the man lived.  Now isn't that a wonderful story?  I have contacted Ft. Louisbourg to validate whether the story is a tall tale or based on fact.

I heard back from the staff at Fort Louisbourg immediately telling me they were out of the office until this morning.  An email was waiting this morning with this explanation of the statue.  She also said that the ships were representative of the ships of the era and did not denote any particular one.

The statue in the chapel of the man with the dog is known as Saint Roch.
His story was taken from a book called "The Lives of Saints", Vol 3 by
Reverend Alban Butler (1711-1773). It was published in 1886 after Butler's
death. Here is what he says about Saint Roche:

"We find this eminent servant of God honoured, especially in France and
Italy, amongst the most illustrious saints in the fourteenth century, soon
after his death; nevertheless, says F. Berthier, we have no authentic
history of his life. All that we can affirm concerning his is, that he was
born of a noble family at Montpellier, and making a pilgrimage of devotion
to Rome, he devoted himself in Italy to serve the sick during a raging
pestilence. Maldura says this happened at Placentia. Falling himself sick
and unable to assist others, and shunned and abandoned by the whole world,
he made a shift to crawl rather than walk into a neighbouring forest, where
a dog used to lick his sores. He bore incredible pains with patience and
holy joy, and God was pleased to restore him to his health. He returned to
France, and in the practice of austere penance, and the most fervent piety
and charity, he wore out his last years at Montpellier where he died, as it
is commonly said, in 1327. Some postpone his death to the decline of that
century, and think he went into Italy only in 1348, when historians mention
that a pestilence made dreatful havoc in that country. Many cities have
been speedily delivered from the plague by imploring his intercession, in
particular that of Constance during the general council held there in 1414.
His body was translated from Montpellier to Venice in 1485, where it is
kept with a great honour in a beautiful church; but certain portions of his
relics are shown at Rome, Arles, and may other places. See Pinius the
Bollandist, t. 3. Augusti, p.380. F. Berthier, the last continuator of F.
Longueval's Hist. de l'Eglise de France, t. 13, ad an. 1327, and the life
of St. Roch by Maldura, translated into French by D'Andilly. Also Pagi the
younger. Bened. XIV. & c."



Did I mention there were sheep?

  

One of the First Nations in Canada was a branch of the Algonquins - the Mic Mac (Mick Mah) also spelled Mi'kmaq.  We were fortunate enough to stop by their heritage center for a quick visit.  You can't miss the center because of the statue of Glooscap, a legendary figure considered by the natives as the creator. He supposedly saved the nation from frog-monster who swallowed all the waters of the world.  He killed the monster and the waters rushed out to cover the earth once again.



There was a small problem with the statue as it was originally made...the arm without the torch extended out from the body at about a 45 degree angle.  The problem came when travelers on the Trans-Canadian Highway started seeing him in silhouette and the arm, well the arm didn't quite look like an arm.  Grin.


We were treated to a demonstration of the Mic Mac "national anthem".  Everything revolves around the four compass points, so it stands to reason that the "anthem" (just not sure what they call the anthem) is sung four times in a row.  We only heard it once because otherwise we would have had to stand the entire time and he didn't want us old fogies doing that....



The drum is made from moose hide since it is native to the area and therefore the climate isn't as rough on it as it would be on a hide from another part of the country.  The face of the drum is painted decoratively with or without meaning. 

Little known fact...the Mic Mac were the inventors and earliest contributors to Wikipedia.  When some newsworthy event took place the Mic Mac would etch the happening on a rocky cliff to record it.  Here is a petroglyph showing large ships in their waters.  Not quite sure how the name came to be associated with the drawings though...oh well, the Mic Mac know and that is all that matters.






Someone way more imaginative than I came up with this.  The wooden musical instrument is rhythmic and is made from a single piece of wood that is beaten on a rock until the end slivers apart.  When hit into the palm of your hand it makes a neat little sound.



This was our greeting as we pulled into Peggy's Cove.

First we had to get there...





Peggy's Cove is said to be named for a young lady, Margaret, who's ship went down off the coast line.  She was saved, fell in love with the guy that saved her and lived out her life in the village named for her.  The lighthouse there is quite famous but boy is it crawling with those pesky tourists :)   It is, unfortunately, also know as a place that sweeps said tourists off the cliffs even though there are warning signs all over the place.  Like so many warnings they don't apply to those that think they are above following the rules.


There is a path of sorts to get you over the rocks to the lighthouse, it is the places beyond the lighthouse that are the dangerous areas.  

Peggy's Cove has a year-round population of 35.  Yup, three five.  I imagine it gets terribly cold with no windbreaks or anything.  During the tourist season it does grow and a lot of that growth is through artists.  They were having a small art show while we were there, a water colorist enhanced his bank account while mine shrunk a bit, and there were several little galleries to poke around in.  
 
Rope art outside a little gallery.


In one, Amos Pewter,  we watched them pour the pewter.  They use rubber mold sandwiches, join the two sides together and then pour the melted/molten - not sure which is the right word - pewter into the center of the mold after putting it in the centrifuge.   






They then spin it around in a machine for a couple of minutes and the centrifugal action forces the melted pewter into the different little molds, take it out and let it cool for only a couple of minutes, and voila we have six little sand dollars ready for the finishing polishing.  Well, in this case maybe only three, BUT there is no waste, the ones that didn't quite come up to snuff as well as the center and the "arms" go back into the kettle to melt and be used again.


 We were also treated to watching a jewelry artist at work.  They make it seem so easy.





As we were leaving we stopped for anyone needing a necessary room, and to view a carving on a 100 foot granite wall.  The William deGarthe was a painter and sculptor who settled in Peggy's Cove.  The granite outcropping below his house spoke to him and he began work on the carvings in 1977 at the age of 70.  With power tools and chisels he began to "release the figures sleeping in the rock for over 10 million years".   Those figures would include 32 fishermen, their wives and children enveloped in the wings of an angel.






The deGarthe's

That Peggy's Cove was a fishing village is clearly seen by the drying nets, lobster traps and piles of fishing lines - loved the colors!




Hope you enjoy these pictures of the beautiful Maritimes, but sure wish you could/would/have the chance to visit them yourselves.  One more post to go showing off Charlottetown and Halifax plus some catch up and a couple of views from my private tour with the bestest ever tour guide ever.

Right now, the grandkids are coming so I need to make cookies.....

1 comment:

  1. Part trois...loved it all, Becci. Are there any trips of yours I don't love? OMG! Thanks for taking me to PEI, a place that's definitely on my bucket list. What a gorgeous place. Maybe I can cross it off before I meet my Maker...but times a runnin' out!

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