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Back Road Whispers is a fanciful name for just liking to travel the back roads of the world, wondering what whispers are lingering in the weathered buildings, rusty farm equipment and closed and boarded up businesses. I stop when I am able and “photograph the past for the future” so my grandchildren and their grandchildren will see what it was like back in the “good old days” of the 20th and early 21st century. Lately I have been exploring the world listening to whispers from palaces, castles, villages, and museums. The whispers need no interpretation.

Saturday, March 15, 2014

Sage Hill - The Inn Above Onion Creek



A good book and, a glass of wine with your best friend in front of a fire on a cold wet day.  Doing all that at a beautiful and tranquil bed and breakfast in the Texas hill country less than 30 miles from home.....priceless.




Before I jump too far ahead let me show you my usual "I am off" picture from the driveway, in this case, on the road leading from my house.


As you can see it isn't my usual gorgeous sunrise, and also you can see I need to replace the windshield wipers.  Suffice it to say it was nasty, ugly, wet, and horrid.  So we did what any self respecting women would do....we went shopping!

 Through prior arrangements with the inn we were able to meet at 10:00 and leave a car in their lot.  Wimberley, another small touristy town is just about 12 miles from the inn so off we went to visit the shops and art galleries, but mostly to have lunch at The Cypress Cafe on the square.  Their "inside out nachos" are delicious and huge - and I left my doggie bag in the fridge in our room when we checked out (dirty words).  About the time we had reached our limits on dodging rain drops and cold winds, we were within the check in time so off we went back to the B&B.  

Despite pickups trying to do a proctology exam on my Explorer I managed to safely turn into the grounds and follow their winding mile long driveway to the inn.  The Live Oaks are amazing and the wildflowers are going to set them off beyond belief.  All along the way were Deer X signs and cautions to drive slow.  No problem! As you can see it is still nasty out.


 That's a two way traffic road...proceed with caution and slowly.

Sage Hill – The Inn Above Onion Creek is in Kyle, a small (well it used to be) town between San Antonio and Austin.  Kyle was established on July 24, 1880 when land was deeded to the International – Great Northern Railroad by David Moore and Fergus Kyle.  The town built up around the railroad and is now pretty much a bedroom community of Austin (in my opinion).



 The inn....see the little porch above the smaller house Right next to the chimney?  That was our room!  These are 1/2 the stairs we climbed to get there and so worth the effort!   Not sure if next time I will go for a lower room with a sleeper sofa or just suck it up and climb those stairs again for the views. 



We stayed in the Schlemmer room and in the room was this description of Mr. Schlemmer.  

"Nicholas C. Schlemmer, a station agent in New Braunfels, was appointed first postmaster of Kyle in 1880.  He refused the appointment upon seeing the town.  William E. Roach of Mountain City accepted the appointment.  A year later Roach officially appointed Schlemmer, who accepted this time.

Schlemmer's time in Kyle included other business endeavors.  In 1884 Schlemmer's Store was opened in a wooden shack on Center Avenue (now Center St.)  In 1885 he rented a large rock storefront on Front Street where the post ofice was located, and the small grocery became a general merchandise store.

In 1890 he built the large rock building on Center Street and changed the name to Schlemmer Mercantile Co.

In 1889 he married; four children were born in Kyle where the Schlemmers resided until 1904 when he entered the American Consular Service in Europe.

N.C.'s brother, Louis, became manager of the store.  It is the present location of Tenorio's Cash Grocery, which is called Center Grocery as of this date, located at 110 W. Center St.

L.C., N.C.'s brother purchased the first car in Kyle, a Buick, according to the Kyle News of April 20, 1928."

 This is the front or the back depending on how you look at it...at any rate it is the other side of the building than the one above. 


 This porch overlooks acres of property that will soon be covered in wildflowers.  Below is a Bluebonnet plant that should be showing color in the next couple of weeks.  This is one among thousands.  Bear in mind each little star shaped cluster produces one magnificent bloom.


There are trails, paths, and grounds to walk and find treasures.  One thing for sure, you will relax and your will take your time...and if you get tired there are plenty of places to rest.  Random shots from our walk.


































Of course no trip is complete without some rust in it...and I found some down the path from the inn.  Not a truck but rust nonetheless.


And I found evidence that Big Foot actually lived and died in Texas.  Unfortunately the only thing remaining is his fossilized foot.



All good things must end, but we just put this place on hold, because we will be back whenever we need just a sit and relax and let the world tend to itself time.  Kyle is the childhood home of Katherine Ann Porter, a woman who had quite the life story including four divorces when divorce wasn't as accepted as now.  She is the author of several magazine articles and short stories, but wrote only one novel, The Ship of Fools based on a trip to Germany she had made many years before writing the book.  Her own story is capsulized at Katherine Ann Porter's Story.  This is the home of her grandmother, where she lived after her mother died when she was only two.  You can arrange tours and that has been added to our bucket list for a future visit to Sage Hill.





We had to circle the block to find parking and this little beauty jumped out at me.  Love circling blocks, almost as good as back roads.



 Only a couple of blocks away is the Donaldson House.  The capitalized wording is from the Texas Historical Commission sign.  Recorded Texas Historical Landmark - 2009.


CORA JACKMAN DONALDSON HOUSE

CORA FRANCES JACKMAN (b. 1853) WAS THE DAUGHTER OF SIDNEY DRAKE AND MARTHA (SLAVIN) JACKMAN.  HER FATHER, A CONFEDERATE GENERAL DURING THE CIVIL WAR AND LATER A STATE REPRESENTATIVE AND U.S. MARSHALL, SETTLED HIS FAMILY IN HAYS COUNTY IN
1865. CORA MARRIED CHAUNCEY B. DONALDSON, OWNER OF THE 738 ACRE LIVE OAK SPRINGS RANCH.  AFTER THE DEATH OF HER HUSBAND CORA HAD WALLACE BROS. LUMBER COMPANY OF KYLE  BUILD THIS HOUSE IN 1913 FROM A RADFORD ARCHITECTURAL PLAN BOOK.  THE TWO STORY RESIDENCE FEATURES QUEEN ANNE AND CLASICAL REVIVAL DETAILING IN ITS CROSS GABLES, IONIC COLUMNS, BAY WINDOWS AND ENTRY WITH TRANSOM AND SIDE LIGHTS.  NO SIGNIFICANT CHANGES HAVE BEEN MADE TO THE HOUSE SINCE THE 1930'S. 






Next door to the Donaldson house is the Auction Oak.  When the Kyle was founded 200 acres of land were given to the railroad (The International and Great Northern) and they held auctions under this oak tree on Auction Day, October 14, 1880.  Free train rides were given to the auction and most of the residential lots were sold.  In 1881 the railroad gave four acres around the oak for a school, Kyle Seminary, which burned in 1889.  Today the oak is on private property and is maintained by the home owners.  Notice, despite the shadows, the sidewalk and how it too accommodates the Auction Oak.




Time to put on our ghoul hats and head off to a couple of local cemeteries.  The first was St. Vicente Cemetery, which is predominately Hispanic.  Before the early 1900s when Vicente Gonzales donated the land for the cemetery, the majority of Hispanics were buried on the property owned by the ranchers who employed them.  Blas Mendez was the driving force behind establishing the cemetery and also was instrumental in having the cemetery named after the man who donated the land allowing Hispanic citizens a place to rest in dignity.
 The Hispanic culture is evident in the many colorful headstones and markers.  The graves are decorated with flowers, mementos and tile work. 


























There were plain crosses, some made of cedar branches tied together, others of wood and tile, and a row of these made of metal tubing screwed together.  


I would love to know the story of these graves, placed outside the fence of the cemetery.


The one that really caught my attention was this one.  Someone knew this lady enjoyed her Lone Star far more than roses, daisies or carnations.



Further down the road is Skyview Cemetery which is predominately African American.  There are over 170 marked graves - some with what we consider normal markers, but others with uninscribed limestone rocks, bricks, and there are many that are not marked and only indicating gravesites by the sunken areas.  The oldest marked grave is that of Mary Kirby (1895)



The cemetery will soon be ablaze in color as the Iris begin to bloom.  There was a promise in one patch but it was still a bit early.


One reason we like to wander around old cemeteries is the artwork found in them.  This is a prime example. 


Although we do find the beauty, it is mixed with the sad often.  I can visualize a young black man, with a strong build and sinewy arms, sitting on a sagging wooden porch after a long hard day in the fields.  Exhausted and with a heavy heart he painstakingly carves away at a rock to mark his baby's final resting place.  R.I.P. Baby Freeman.


After a couple of stops for necessities...nothing fun...I took Pat back to her car and headed on home.  Someone was happy to see me pull into the driveway.


Enjoy the journeys you take, but remember to listen for the whispers of those back roads you travel.

1 comment:

  1. Thanks for taking me along on your getaway, Becki! I enjoyed it immensely. I'd love to be there when those bluebonnets bloom!

    Hugs!

    ReplyDelete